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Chainless Bikes - Advanced Engineering Made Simple

Written by Nice Hot Tea on 3:06 PM

Dynamic Bicycles' chainless bikes combine two innovative technologies to create a new generation of bikes that are smoother to ride, easier to operate, and simpler to maintain than traditional chain bikes.

  • The first of these technologies is our patented shaft drive (watch animation) that smoothly transfers power from the pedals to the rear wheel.

  • The second is Shimano's advanced internal gear hubs, whereby all the gearing is neatly tucked away inside the rear wheel.

MTB: Which material is best for different types of riding?

Written by Nice Hot Tea on 2:31 PM

This is a subject fraught with strong opinions and more likely to upset mountain bikers than any amount of ranting on about politics and religion.... so I'll just dive right in then.


Aluminium is the best mountain bike frame material out there. See I've upset you already! Seriously, before full suspension came along Titanium was the best thing since sliced bread. It lasts forever (almost) is light, strong and has a natural springiness that takes some of the vibration out of riding a hardtail. Steel is a close second mainly because of it's relative cheapness. It has the spring of titanium (in it's more expensive forms) and can last a long time if cared for.

But once you introduce suspension the natural spring of Titanium and Steel are a down side. All those bushings and linkages need to operate with the minimum of side forces which would cause binding. So if you want your suspension to work properly the frame's tubes need to be very stiff. No problem, just add more metal. This is fine if you're using Aluminium, but if you're using Steel we're talking battleship heavy. Titanium is somewhere in-between. It's a lot of hard work to make it stiff and it still wouldn't be that light.

If you want a cross country race bike it could be made of any of the above metals. The race heads tend to want all their power to go to the chain however and this means a stiff frame. I don't have to say they also want it to be lighter than air, so Aluminium is the masochists metal of choice. Sure you get hammered on all but the smoothest courses, but if you can't take the pain of racing you won't be on the podium too often. Aluminium has a nasty habit of cracking when made up too light. It just doesn't like to be flexed. This means most Aluminium frames will eventually fail, some of the light ones sooner rather than later. This doesn't worry the hardened racer though, they only see what all the pro's are winning on. Anyway, who wants an old mountain bike?

For the 'all day hard rider' there are lots of choices. If you have loads of money and don't mind maintenance then an Aluminium full suspension super-scoot is the way to go. Carbon fibre gets a look in here as well because it can be made to be stiff and very light. Just don't stack too hard on it. For the low maintenance and more affordable option, Steel is definitely the hardtail choice. It's spring and longevity as well as value, mark it out as the best in the class. Aluminium can be used, but even with a suspension seat post it will still hurt more when you stand on the pedals.

The downhillers have the same problems with steel and Ti as the long hard riders. They do break a lot more frames however and if you're really only going down (many courses have hard pedaling sections) weight is less of an issue. So steel gets a look in because it can be built incredibly strong, with a weight penalty. Carbon fibre gets broken a lot but this is mostly because builders use it where they want to shave weight. Less weight equals less strength (DUH!). Carbon is also subject to build quality problems. Easton and Cannondale seem to have solved more of it's faults than most and in their hands it probably doesn't deserve it's fragile reputation.

For the jumpers out there strength is almost everything. Carbon fibre inspires no confidence, Ti is not worth the cash, as weight isn't a big factor, so Steel or Aluminium it is. Steel will take more hammer in the end and so I reckon it's the metal to go for. Steel is also present at the birth of any new frame type. Before the big companies get in to gear (3 years or more?) steel is the metal of choice for custom building, it's a lot easier to put together than the others.

So what's the best frame material out there? obviously it depends on your riding preferences, wallet thickness and maintenance schedule. For the record I'm a full suspension convert so the order of the day is Aluminium and/or Carbon fibre. For the low maintenance types a hard tail should be made of Titanium if you can afford it, Steel if you can't.

MTB: Pedal Tips

Written by Nice Hot Tea on 2:05 PM

While many riders use clipless pedals - there are still quite a few who use platform pedals. These riders may experience difficulty with injury from the pedals hitting their shins or ankles while walking the bike or while riding and having their feet slip off the pedals. Some types of platform pedals are particularly dangerous due to their surfaces having spikes, screws, or metal points to help traction with your shoe and prevent your shoe from slipping off the pedal.


Here are a few tips to consider if you have trouble with shin injuries and your platform pedals.

*Wear a stiff soled shoe with good support and one that gets good traction on the pedals.
*Do not use plastic pedals on your bike, as these will eventually lead to breakage and problems on the trail
*Consider using long socks, lizard skin shinguards, or tights to cover your shins while riding.
*Be extra carefull when walking the bike and keep your footsteps well away from the pedals.
*If you receive an injury on the trail, try to clean and bandage the area asap...
*Consider switching a lower profile pedal or one that does not have any sharp spikes, teeth, or nubs on the surface
*Consider the use of clipless pedals.


VIRUS BERSEPEDA

Written by Nice Hot Tea on 4:39 PM

jarak rumah-kantor 20km (pp 40km), tapi terkadang lebih karena ambil jalur memutar. Namun virus itu benar-benar sudah menyebar, terbukti sekarang menjadi aktivitas rutin 2x seminggu – Kamis & Sabtu diikuti hampir 20 orang. Dalam minggu ini saja ada 2 temen beli sepeda baru...

Aku sendiri senang aktivitas touring (road bike) dan kadang cross country (XC). Semula ada 2 sepeda untuk itu, namun keduanya sudah terlalu uzur. November 2006 aku beli sepeda baru, Polygon Vintage, dan terjawab sudah kebutuhanku karena sepeda ini didesain dengan konsep hybrid. Dengan Vintage baik touring maupun XC bisa dilakukan dengan 1 sepeda. Bobot ringan dengan ban 700Cx38 cocok untuk touring dan suspensi depan disertai dengan ban berprofil sangat memadai untuk XC. Apalagi frame Vintage sangat tangguh dengan shifter yang nyaman dan ready for disc brake (rem cakram).

polygoncycle.com

MTB : Seat Height

Written by Nice Hot Tea on 2:03 PM

Seat Height
The height of your bike should match the length of your legs. Getting the correct seat height is a matter of simple analogy. Start off by sitting on the saddle, with one of your feet on one pedal which is at the bottom of its stroke. Your seat is too high if your leg is perfectly straight, while your seat is too low if your knees are bent too much. In this case, simply adjust the bolt system located under your seat. Raise or lower your seat until you feel comfortable. Ideally, your knees should be bent at a 25-30 degree angle.

Seat Position
An effective way to find the correct seat position is by executing a normal riding position, with the pedals positioned parallel to the ground. Your seat is in the right position if your front knee is above the middle of the pedal. If it is not over it, this will cause knee pain. Regarding the seat angle, just keep your seat level or be titled a little forward. Tilting the seat down will push you to the handlebars, while tilting it back will drag your body down. Correcting your seat position and angle can be done by adjusting the bolt located near the top of the seat post.


Incorrect Mountain Bike seat height and position would definitely lead to discomfort, physical pain, and dismal performance. Adjust the height and position of your bike seat so you will be comfortable while riding your bike and improve your overall performance.

abc-of-mountainbiking.com

Bike To Work Day

Written by Nice Hot Tea on 6:00 PM

Help Make Bike To Work Day 2008 another record-breaking success! Volunteer!

Why bike to work on May 15th?

Our Bike Doctors will help you Gear Up!

The SFBC will help you dust off that old bike and pump up those tires to get you rolling for Bike to Work Day.


sfbike.org

Best bikes: Performance & comfort

Written by Nice Hot Tea on 4:43 PM

Here's a quick rundown of each category, starting with the most expensive:

  • Road bikes, conventional as well as peformance, feature skinny tires, a narrow seat, a lightweight frame, and drop handlebars. These bikes are for riders who want to log serious miles, including multi-day touring. They're typically sold in bike shops, where buyers can often customize their bike's pedals and seat. All of the road bikes we tested this time are performance models except for the LeMond Propad, which is a cross bike. Cross bikes are essentially extra-durable road bikes with wider, knobby tires for better off-road traction. Our price range for road bikes: $650 to $1,800.

  • Fitness bikes blend the slim tires, narrow seats, and lightweight frames of road bikes with the horizontal handlebars and the more upright riding position of mountain bikes, a type mainly for off-road use and not covered here. Fitness bikes can be the right choice for someone who wants to burn calories, improve cardiovascular fitness, or commute to work. Our price range: $630 to $830.

  • Comfort bikes, on which you sit in an upright position, are for leisurely recreational riding. These bikes offer creature comforts such as shock absorbers in the seat and/or fork; a cushiony, wide seat; and low gears for easier uphill pedaling. Our price range: $330 to $600.


How to choose

Decide what kind of riding you'll do. That will narrow your choice to one of the three basic categories in this report or to a mountain bike. If you're an avid cyclist you may prefer a conventional road bike, which differs from most of the models we tested mainly in how low you have to bend over the handlebars.

Find a good bike shop. You'll pay more, but we think you're more likely to be satisfied. Bikes from big-box stores might not be properly assembled or well matched to your body. If you don't like the pedals or seat on a particular model, some bike shops will swap components at little or no cost.

Take a test ride. Before you buy any bike, ride it far enough to make sure that the brakes and shifters are easy to use, the fit is comfortable, the gears can go low enough for climbing hills, and the frame and suspension adequately smooth the bumps.

Consider these extras. A good bike helmet is essential. Special cycling shoes and cleats can ease your pedaling. Gloves will absorb vibrations and help protect your hands in a spill. Polycarbonate glasses can shield your eyes from slow-moving bugs and errant pebbles. A water bottle will be handy to have on long, hot-weather rides.

consumerreports.org

Surly Cross-Check

Written by Nice Hot Tea on 4:36 PM

Description
  • Frame: Surly Cross-Check
  • Fork: Surly Cross-Check
  • Headset: Ritchey Logic Comp
  • Stem: Tahoma
  • Handlebars: Salsa Moto Ace Bell-Lap
  • Bottom Bracket: Shimano Deore LX
  • Saddle: Velo Endzone
  • Chain: Shimano HG-72
  • Tires: Ritchey SpeedMax Cross

Summary:
2008 Surly Cross Check. Have been riding seriously for about 4 years purchased a Brodie fury hard tail XC 2 years ago great bike. Used it in a few endurence races. Paris to Ankaster and Lake to Lake classic these races better souted to a cross bike. Plus I like to road bike at times so this cross again a good combo. Tested a Brodie Romax great components out of the box. Alum frame carbon fork. Surly still felt better, Lemond Propod, Steel frame carbon fork excellent feel ride quality good Surly still better, Scott Comp Alum frame carbon fork this one felt great would of been second choice but the surly still felt better.

Strengths:
Great smooth ride takes rough well this thing want to move feels very confident well biult and solid. The bar end shifters work flawlessly. This thing is as rugged as a tank but drives like a corvette.

Weaknesses:
Heavier than the res with time atac pedals installed tips in at 25 lbs. although the components are good reliable ones I will be swithcing them out as needed. Spooky breaks later on, Mavic Krysium wheelset etc after a few years I should be albe to get it down to about 22 lbs.

roadbikereview.com

How To Pick The Best Bike For You

Written by Nice Hot Tea on 4:07 PM

So Many Choices


When trying to decide on the best type of bike, think about these questions:

- Who do you ride with?
- What do they ride?
- What have you had in the past that you liked?
- What have you had in the past that you disliked?
- What would you like to do with your new bike?
- How much money are you comfortable spending?

Getting To Know The Types Of Bikes Available

Road bikes are fast and easy to pedal on pavement. They are incapable of operating off the road. Many people find the riding position difficult to maintain for a long time.

Mountain bikes are harder to pedal and slower on pavement. But they have a cushy ride, an upright riding position, and can travel easily on a wide variety of surfaces.

Hybrid or cross bikes are almost as fast and easy to pedal as a road bike, while being almost as comfortable and versatile as a mountain bike.

Comfort bikes are just that—comfortable. They are less efficient, but sitting on one is much more comfortable.

Cruisers are fun to look at and, when ridden at a relaxed pace, they are ideal for admiring the scenery, exploring the neighborhood or beach.

Recumbents are quite comfortable, very fast. They sit so low to the ground that visibility can be an issue, and they require some learning to be operated with maximum efficiency.

Bike helmets: The right fit

Written by Nice Hot Tea on 3:56 PM

Choosing a helmet that fits and wearing it properly increase your protection. A knowledgeable store employee can help you try on helmets until you find one that's suitable. Use the guidelines below:

  • Use the appropriate foam pads and the rear stabilizer or helmet's fit system to create a snug (but not tight) fit when you place the helmet level on your head.

  • With the chin strap buckled and all other straps tight, push up firmly on the helmet's front edge. If the helmet moves enough to expose the forehead, shorten the front straps, then tighten the chin strap enough so that you can feel the top of the helmet when you open your mouth. Repeat as necessary.

  • Grasp the helmet by its rear edge and peel it off to the front. If it moves enough to cover your eyes, shorten the back straps (but leave the front straps alone). Repeat as necessary.

  • If you still can't achieve a satisfactory fit, choose another model.
consumerrports.org